Watch Clasp Design

Anyone made a watch clasp before? Making one in sterling and not sure of the best way to go about it.


  • edited May 19

    lots depends on a bracelet but most important thing from my experience is to make an axle and both "catch wires" out of hard white gold and laser it down if you care about your reputation. Silver itself will ware out very quickly in those critical spots. I do the same for platinum and yellow gold clasps as well.

  • Yeah, I planned on that part. The catch wire (separate cylinder on the end of the clasp) is meant to be stainless. I'm using standard Cas-Ker stainless steel spring bars, bracelet pins for regular links, and notched pins with catch tubes for adjustable links.

    I'm really just trying to figure out how much overlap between the catch wire and the undercut notch. Silver doesn't have a lot of spring to it, and I don't know how much stretch I should put on it.

    I did angle the notch for the receiving pin down. That way any tension on the band is converted to compression on the latch.

  • I usually plan for at least 0.5mm overlap then do the few close and opens with some lubricant and see how it feels. If it's too hard - sand it down some and try again.

    Off the shelf works for some orders, well, it depends.. )

  • This is a fun project. Compare the off the shelf overlap with your model. There is actually very little overlap on these things. Kind of a 'friction-fit, plus a smidge'. The wider the less overlap.

    Also I suspect when yours is closed, with that little 'trapping' ridge, you wont' be able to get it open, so consider making that a smooth radius.

    Not sure that less than a mil cutout (on the bottom) is strong?

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